Laundry Room Cabinets Installation — Uppers, Countertop and Shelving
Detergent on top of the dryer, a wire shelf that sags, nowhere to fold. Cabinets over the machines, a counter across the front-loaders and a rod for hangers turn the laundry closet into a room that works.
Laundry room cabinets installation is upper cabinets hung over the washer and dryer, a countertop set over front-loaders for folding, and a hanging rod for what comes out of the dryer. JMB Builders does it across the Twin Cities metro with stock cabinets you buy that we hang into the studs, or shelving and a countertop we build on site. Working around the vent, the water box and the outlets is the job. Priced per project, quoted from photos.
- Priced per project
- Stock cabinets we install, or site-built shelving
- Countertop over front-loaders, hanging rod, uppers
- Hung into studs, clear of the vent and water box
- Licensed MN contractor BC809005
A laundry room is a small room with a lot going on in the walls: the dryer vent, the water supply box, the drain standpipe, a gas line or a 240-volt outlet, sometimes a floor drain. Cabinets and shelving have to go around all of it, at heights that leave room to pull the machines out and open their lids or doors. That is why a laundry built-in is a carpentry job and not just a cabinet delivery.
The usual setup is three pieces. Upper cabinets over the machines, hung on a ledger or a rail screwed into the studs, set high enough to clear a top-load lid or the controls on a front-loader. A countertop over front-loading machines, a slab of laminate, butcher block or a solid surface, supported at the ends on cleats or a side panel so it does not sit on the machines and shake. And a hanging rod or a shelf with hooks for things that come out of the dryer straight onto a hanger.
Stock cabinets from a home center or a cabinet supplier are the fast route, and we hang them, level them, screw them into the studs and trim the gaps. When the room is an odd width, or you want open shelving with a rod instead of doors, we build it on site from painted plywood and poplar, sized to the wall, scribed to the ceiling and the walls, and left ready for paint.
What you supply
- Photos of the machines from the front, the wall above them and the hookups behind, plus the wall width and ceiling height
- Top-load or front-load machines, and their height, so the cabinets and the counter clear them
- Stock cabinets if you are buying them, or the layout you want us to build: shelves, rod, a tall cabinet
- The countertop if you are ordering laminate or solid surface; we install it or build a plywood and laminate top
- Painting site-built shelving is quoted as a separate line — or leave it primed and caulked and paint it yourself
What JMB supplies
- Layout with cabinet and counter heights set to your machines, the vent, the water box and the outlets
- Stock cabinets hung on a ledger or rail into the studs, leveled, joined and trimmed to the wall
- Site-built open shelving and a hanging rod in painted plywood and poplar when that fits the room better
- Countertop over front-loaders on end cleats or a side panel, not resting on the machines
- Filler strips, scribe molding and a light valance under the uppers if you want one
- Removal of old wire shelving and patching of the clip holes
- Painting when you want it done, quoted as its own line
- Photos of the finished laundry room in your job folder
How it is priced: per project
Quoted in writing from your photos within one business day. What moves the number:
- Stock cabinets we install vs. shelving and a counter we build on site
- Number of upper cabinets, and a tall cabinet or broom closet beside the machines
- Countertop over front-loaders, and laminate vs. butcher block vs. solid surface
- Hanging rod, shelf with hooks or a drying rack
- Working around the vent, the water box, the standpipe and the outlets
- A laundry closet with bifold doors vs. an open room
- Walls and ceiling out of square that need heavier scribing
Send a photo of the wall above the machines with a tape measure across it, and say whether the machines are top-load or front-load. That sets every height and makes the quote firm.
How long it takes
Uppers and a rod over the machines: half a day. Uppers, a countertop and a tall cabinet: a full day. Site-built shelving and counter: one to two days.
How your project works
- 1
Send photos, get a written quote
Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized quote within one business day. We only come out to measure first when the job needs a tape measure — no pressure, no games.
- 2
Pick materials, or bring your own
We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.
- 3
Clean, precise installation
The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.
- 4
Walkthrough and invoice
We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.
Situations and options
Stock uppers over the machines
Cabinets you bought at a home center or a cabinet supplier, hung into the studs at the right height for your machines, leveled, joined and trimmed to the wall.
Countertop over front-loaders
A laminate, butcher block or solid-surface top across both machines, on end cleats or a side panel so it does not vibrate with the spin cycle. A folding surface and a lid over the gap.
Open shelving and hanging rod
Site-built painted shelves above the machines with a rod under the lowest shelf for hangers. Fits an odd-width closet where stock cabinets leave gaps.
Laundry closet full build
Uppers or shelves, a counter across the machines, a tall cabinet beside them for the ironing board and the vacuum, and a rod. Bifold doors reset to clear it all.
Laundry Room Cabinets Installation — Uppers, Countertop and Shelving: questions, answered
How high should cabinets be above a washer and dryer?
High enough to clear the machines and their lids or controls, and low enough to reach. A top-load washer needs room for the lid to open all the way, which sets the cabinet bottom higher than over a front-loader. Front-loaders with a countertop over them set the cabinet bottom off the counter like a kitchen. We measure your machines, not a chart, and set the height from that.
Can you put a countertop over a front-load washer and dryer?
Yes, and it is the best folding surface in the house. The top spans both machines and rests on cleats screwed into the studs at the back and on a side panel or cleat at each end, so the machines do not carry it and the spin cycle does not shake it. Laminate, butcher block or a solid-surface remnant all work. We leave enough clearance to pull the machines out for service.
Do you install laundry cabinets I bought at a store?
Yes. Stock cabinets from a home center or a cabinet supplier are hung on a ledger or a rail screwed into the studs, leveled, screwed together, and trimmed with filler strips and scribe molding so there is no gap at the wall. Send the cabinet sizes before you order and we check them against the wall width and the machine height so they fit the first time.
Can you build laundry room shelving instead of cabinets?
Yes. When the room is an odd width, or you want open shelves and a rod instead of doors, we build it on site from painted plywood with poplar edges, scribed to the walls and ceiling, with a rod under the lowest shelf for hangers. It fits the room exactly and costs less than cabinets. Painting is quoted as a separate line — or leave it primed and caulked and paint it yourself.
How do you work around the dryer vent and the water hookups?
By finding them first. The vent, the water supply box, the drain standpipe and the outlets are all in the wall behind the machines, and cabinets and shelving have to clear them and leave the shutoffs reachable. We lay out the cabinets around what is in the wall, notch a back or a side panel where needed, and keep the machines able to pull out. Moving a vent or a water box is a plumber or HVAC job we coordinate.
Where does a hanging rod go in a laundry room?
Under the upper cabinets or the lowest shelf, over the dryer, so clothes go from the dryer onto a hanger in one motion. The rod is in end brackets screwed into the cabinet sides or the shelf cleats, with a center support on a long run. A shelf with a row of hooks does the same job in a narrower closet. Either one goes in with the cabinets or the shelving.
Get a written quote for this job
Three photos and a sentence is enough. You hear back within one business day. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.
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Read morePage reviewed September 24, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All built-ins pages
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