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Remove a Non Load Bearing Wall — Floor, Ceiling and Walls Patched

One wall stands between the kitchen and the dining room, or splits a basement in two. You want it gone, and you want to know it is safe to take out.

JMB Builders removes non load bearing walls across the Twin Cities metro. We check first that the wall carries no load: joist direction, what sits above, what sits below. If it is bearing, a structural engineer sizes a beam and it becomes a different job. If it is not, the wall comes out, wiring and ducts in it are rerouted by licensed trades, and the ceiling, end walls and floor are patched. Priced per project.

  • Priced per project
  • Bearing check before anything is cut
  • Ceiling, walls and floor patched
  • Licensed MN contractor BC809005
Wall framing in a Minnesota home during construction

Taking out a wall is quick. Knowing it can come out, and making the room look like it was never there, is the job. The first step is the bearing check. We look at which way the ceiling joists or trusses run, whether they end or splice over the wall, what is above it (a second-floor wall, a point load, an attic with trusses) and what is below it (a beam, a wall or a post in the basement). A wall running the same direction as the joists, with nothing under it, is usually non-bearing. Anything unclear gets opened up at the top plate before we cut.

If the wall is bearing, a structural engineer sizes a beam and posts, a building permit is pulled, and it is a different job. We tell you that before any demolition. If it is not bearing, the next question is what runs through it. Outlets and switches get moved by a licensed electrician; a supply line, drain, vent or duct gets rerouted by a licensed plumber or HVAC tech. That can be the biggest part of the price.

Then the patching. The ceiling gets a strip of drywall where the top plate was, taped and textured to match. The end walls get finished corners. The floor is where it shows most: hardwood gets boards laced in, LVP gets a row or two replaced or a flush patch, carpet gets seamed, and tile gets pieces cut in or a threshold. We plan the floor patch before the wall comes out.

What you supply

  • Photos of both sides of the wall, the ceiling above it and the basement or floor below it
  • Leftover flooring from the original install if you have any
  • Your paint colors — painting is quoted as a separate line, or paint it yourself
  • Clear access to the rooms and the attic or basement below

What JMB supplies

  • Bearing check of the wall from above and below, opened at the top plate when needed
  • Dust protection and floor protection in both rooms
  • Wall removal and haul-away
  • Wiring, pipes or ducts in the wall rerouted by a licensed electrician, plumber or HVAC tech
  • Ceiling strip hung, taped and textured to match
  • End walls finished with corner bead or trim
  • Floor patched where the wall stood, laced in or matched as close as the flooring allows
  • Baseboard and casing reset where the wall met them

How it is priced: per project

Quoted in writing from your photos within one business day. What moves the number:

  • Wall length and height
  • Wiring, plumbing, vents or ducts inside the wall that must be rerouted
  • Floor type under the wall and whether matching material is available
  • Ceiling texture to match: smooth, knockdown, popcorn
  • Plaster walls, which take longer to remove and patch than drywall
  • A bearing wall, which needs an engineer's beam and is quoted as a different job

Send photos of the wall from both sides, the ceiling above it, the floor at its base, and the basement or crawl space directly below it.

How long it takes

A short partition with no wiring: two to three days including patching and drying time. Add time for rerouted wiring, plumbing or ducts and for a floor lace-in.

How your project works

  1. 1

    Send photos, get a written quote

    Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized quote within one business day. We only come out to measure first when the job needs a tape measure — no pressure, no games.

  2. 2

    Pick materials, or bring your own

    We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.

  3. 3

    Clean, precise installation

    The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.

  4. 4

    Walkthrough and invoice

    We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.

Remove a Non Load Bearing Wall — Floor, Ceiling and Walls Patched: questions, answered

How can I tell if a wall is load bearing?

Check which way the ceiling joists run above it; a wall perpendicular to the joists, especially where they overlap or splice on top of it, is often bearing. Look below it too: a beam, wall or posts directly under it point to bearing. Exterior walls and walls in the middle of the house are the usual bearing walls. When in doubt, it gets checked before anything is cut.

What happens if the wall turns out to be load bearing?

It can still usually come out, but it is a different job. A structural engineer sizes a beam and the posts that carry it down to the footing, a building permit is pulled, and the ceiling is shored while the beam goes in. We tell you before any demolition starts.

Do I need a permit to remove a non load bearing wall?

In many Twin Cities cities, removing a non-bearing partition with nothing in it needs no building permit, but moving wiring, plumbing or ducts does need the trade's permit. Rules vary by city. Check with your city's building department before work starts.

How do you patch the floor where a wall was removed?

It depends on the floor. Hardwood gets new boards woven in so the patch has no straight seam. LVP or laminate gets planks replaced across the gap. Carpet gets seamed, and tile gets cut pieces or a threshold. Leftover flooring from the original install makes the best match.

Can you remove a wall that has outlets or a light switch in it?

Yes. The circuits get rerouted by a licensed electrician before the wall comes down, either into the ceiling or to a nearby wall. Switches for lights often move to the nearest end wall.

How much mess does removing a wall make?

Drywall and plaster dust is the main mess. We hang plastic to close off both rooms, cover the floors, and clean up at the end of each day. Plaster walls make more dust and debris than drywall.

Recent JMB work, from our job log

59 installs recorded across 30 Twin Cities communities since Dec 2025. Window and door installs for homeowners and for the builders and dealers we sub for. Counts come straight from our job log; no customer names.

Get a written quote for this job

Three photos and a sentence is enough. You hear back within one business day. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.

Free quote from your photos in one business day · No obligation · Licensed contractor

Photos (up to 3 — the fastest way to a price)

One wide shot of the room or wall, one close-up of the trim or opening, one of anything you're unsure about.

Related jobs we do

Page reviewed September 26, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All drywall pages

Where we work

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Based in Zimmerman, scheduling across the Twin Cities metro. Closest first: