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Replace 1990s Builder Grade Windows — Fogged Glass, Leaking Mulls

The house was built in the 1990s and still has its original windows. Some are fogged, the double hungs will not stay up, and there is a water stain under the big mulled unit.

Reply within one business day. Or call / text 763-204-2099.

To replace 1990s builder grade windows, JMB Builders measures every opening, checks the mulled units and sills for leaks, and replaces the original vinyl or low-end clad windows as inserts or full-frame where water has gotten in. Common in suburbs across the Twin Cities metro: fogged glass, drafty sashes, broken balances and leaking mull joints. Priced per window, quoted from photos, reply within one business day.

  • Priced per window, windows supplied
  • Mulled units and sills checked for leaks
  • Insert or full-frame decided per opening
Inside of a new white bay window with curtains, street view beyond

Many of the houses built across the outer-ring suburbs in the 1990s went up with the windows that came with the builder's package: early white vinyl, or low-end clad wood. They have been in for close to thirty Minnesota winters. The usual list by now is fogged glass, balances that no longer hold the sash, flattened weatherstrip, and vinyl that has yellowed or chalked.

The part to look at closely is the mulled units: two or three windows joined into one big opening over the couch or the kitchen table. The joint between them, the mull, was often only caulked, and when that seal goes, water runs down inside the mull to the sill. Stained drywall under a ganged window or a soft sill outside is the sign.

We measure every opening and look at each sill. Where the frame is sound, the new window goes in as an insert inside the old frame. Where a mulled unit or sill has taken on water, that opening goes full-frame so the wall can be opened, the rot fixed and the new unit flashed. If your city requires a permit for the job, we pull it. Painting is quoted as a separate line — or leave it primed and caulked and paint it yourself.

Get a written quote for this job

Three photos and a sentence is enough: a reply within one business day, or ask for a free in-home estimate. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.

Photos (optional)

Up to 3: one wide shot of the area, one close-up of the opening or trim, one of anything you're unsure about.

How do you want your quote?

Free, no obligation. Every quote is written and itemized, so you can compare it line by line.

What you supply

  • Your pick of window style, color and glass for each room
  • Photos of each window inside and out, plus the front and back of the house
  • Close-ups of any water stains, soft sills or fogged glass
  • The year the house was built and any windows already replaced

What JMB supplies

  • In-home measure of every opening before anything is ordered
  • The windows, ordered to size
  • A check of each sill and mulled unit for water damage
  • Insert installs where the frame is sound
  • Full-frame installs where water got in, with rot repair quoted when found
  • Sill pan, flashing, low-expansion foam and sealant on full-frame units
  • Removal and haul-away of the old windows
  • Photos of the finished windows in your job folder

How it is priced: per window

Quoted in writing from your photos, with a reply within one business day. What moves the number:

  • Insert vs. full-frame on each opening
  • Large mulled units and whether they are replaced as one unit or separately
  • Rot found in sills or framing under leaking units
  • Vinyl, fiberglass or clad wood, and the glass package
  • Interior trim: reuse, new casing, or drywall returns
  • Second-story access and how many windows in the job

Point out any window with a water stain under it. Those openings are priced as full-frame so there are no surprises.

How long it takes

Most 1990s houses: two to four days for the whole house once the windows arrive, depending on count, size and how many go full-frame.

How your project works

  1. 1

    Send photos, get a written quote

    Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized reply within one business day. Prefer a look in person? A free in-home estimate is always an option.

  2. 2

    Pick materials, or bring your own

    We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.

  3. 3

    Clean, precise installation

    The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.

  4. 4

    Walkthrough and invoice

    We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.

Situations and options

Inserts throughout

When every frame and sill is dry and solid. Quickest and keeps the interior trim. Common when the complaint is fog and drafts, not leaks.

Mixed insert and full-frame

Inserts where the frames are sound, full-frame at the openings that leaked. The most common result on 1990s houses with big mulled units.

With new siding

If the siding is being replaced too, the windows go in full-frame as each wall is opened and are flashed before the new siding goes on.

Replace 1990s Builder Grade Windows — Fogged Glass, Leaking Mulls: questions, answered

How long do builder grade vinyl windows last?

It varies with the window, the exposure and how it was installed. Many 1990s builder-grade windows in Minnesota are now showing fogged glass, failed balances and worn seals. Once several of those are failing at once, replacement usually costs less over time than repairing window by window.

Why is water leaking under my mulled window?

The joint between two windows joined together, the mull, was often only caulked. When the caulk fails, water runs down inside the joint to the sill and into the wall. That opening should be replaced full-frame so the sill can be checked and the new unit flashed.

Can I fix my 1990s windows instead of replacing them?

One or two problems, yes: a fogged unit can be reglazed, balances and weatherstrip replaced. When most windows have several problems at once, the repairs add up and new windows are usually better money. We price both when it is close.

Insert or full-frame for a 1990s house?

Insert where the frame and sill are dry and sound, full-frame where water has gotten in or you are replacing siding. Many 1990s houses end up with a mix. We decide opening by opening at the measure.

Do I have to replace every window at once?

No. Doing the whole house at once gives one measure, one order and matching windows, and usually a lower cost per window. Doing it in phases works; we note the style and color so later rounds match.

What windows do you replace builder grade windows with?

That is your choice of brand, frame material and glass, and we go over the options at the measure. We buy windows through ABC Supply and install them, and we also install windows you buy yourself.

Recent JMB work, from our job log

59 installs recorded across 30 Twin Cities communities since Dec 2025. Window and door installs for homeowners and the builders we work with. Counts come straight from our job log; no customer names.

Related jobs we do

Page reviewed October 9, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All windows pages

Where we work

Window Replacement & Installation near you

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