Shower Tile Installation — Waterproofed Walls, Pan and Niche
A tiled shower that stays dry behind the tile — membrane, pan and niche built as one system, then wall tile set plumb with the cuts where you never see them.
Shower tile installation from JMB Builders starts with the waterproofing: a foam board or sheet-membrane system on the walls and a bonded pan, flood-tested before any tile goes on. Then a recessed niche, walls set plumb with the cuts in the back corners, grout, and silicone at every change of plane. A licensed plumber sets the valve and drain. Twin Cities metro, priced per project, quoted from your photos within one business day.
- Priced per project
- Waterproofing board or membrane, flood tested
- Licensed plumber for the valve and drain
- Quote from photos in 1 business day
- Licensed MN contractor BC809005
Tile is not waterproof. Grout is not waterproof. What keeps a shower from rotting the wall behind it is the layer under the tile, and that is where most shower failures start. We build every shower on a waterproofing system — foam board with sealed seams, or a sheet membrane over cement board — with a bonded pan or a one-piece base tied into it, and we flood-test the pan before a single tile goes on.
The tile itself is layout and patience. We find the level line, plan the walls so full tiles show at eye level and the cuts land in the back corners and at the ceiling, set a recessed niche between the studs so it drains, and keep the grout lines straight from wall to wall. The corners and the seam at the pan get silicone, not grout, because those joints move.
The plumbing rough-in — the mixing valve, the shower head drop, the drain — is done by a licensed plumber we bring in or one you already have. We coordinate the timing so the valve is set before the waterproofing closes the wall.
What you supply
- The wall tile, floor tile for the pan, and any accent or niche tile, with about ten percent extra
- The shower valve, trim kit and head, or tell us what you want and we will spec it with the plumber
- A glass door or curtain rod plan, so the curb and blocking are ready for it
- Grout and silicone colors, or leave the match to us
What JMB supplies
- Demo of the old surround or tile and haul-away
- Waterproofing: foam board or membrane, sealant, corners and pipe seals
- Shower pan — mortar bed with bonded membrane, or a foam pan kit — and the drain assembly to match
- Recessed niche framed and waterproofed into the wall
- Blocking in the studs for grab bars, a bench or a glass door if you want them later
- Thinset, grout, silicone, and a leveling system for large tile
- A licensed plumber for the valve, drain and any moved lines, on our quote or yours
- Photos of the waterproofing and the finished shower in your job folder
How it is priced: per project
Quoted in writing from your photos within one business day. What moves the number:
- Tub surround only, full shower walls and pan, or a tub-to-shower conversion
- Waterproofing system: foam board is faster to install than membrane over cement board
- Tile size and pattern — large-format and stacked patterns need a flatter wall and more layout time
- A niche, a bench or a curbless entry, each of which adds framing and waterproofing detail
- Whether the valve stays where it is or the plumber moves it
- Wall condition behind the old surround: rot or mold means new studs before board
- Ceiling tiled or left drywall
Send a photo of the current shower from the doorway, one of the valve wall, and the tile you have picked. We will quote the tile work and get the plumber's number into the same quote.
How long it takes
A standard three-wall shower with a new pan: about a week from demo to grout, with the plumber's visit and the flood test inside that. Add a few days before it can be used while the silicone cures.
How your project works
- 1
Send photos, get a written quote
Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized quote within one business day. We only come out to measure first when the job needs a tape measure — no pressure, no games.
- 2
Pick materials, or bring your own
We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.
- 3
Clean, precise installation
The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.
- 4
Walkthrough and invoice
We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.
Situations and options
Tub surround retile
Tub stays, the walls above it get demoed to the studs, waterproofed and retiled. The seam between the tub and the tile is the detail that matters: flashed, then siliconed, so water does not get behind the tub flange.
Full walk-in shower
Walls and a tiled floor on a sloped mortar pan with a bonded membrane, or a preformed foam pan. A curb or a curbless entry, a linear or center drain, and a niche on the wall you do not face.
Tub-to-shower conversion
The tub comes out, the plumber moves the drain and valve as needed, and a shower pan goes in the tub footprint. Blocking for grab bars and a fold-down seat can go in the wall at the same time.
Niche, bench and shelf
A recessed niche framed between studs with a sloped bottom, a built bench on a waterproofed frame, or a corner shelf set into the tile. Each is planned into the layout so the tile lines carry through.
Shower Tile Installation — Waterproofed Walls, Pan and Niche: questions, answered
What waterproofing do you use behind shower tile?
Either a foam wall board with sealed seams and screw covers, or a sheet membrane bonded over cement board. Both go all the way up the wall, tie into the pan, and get sealed at the valve and the niche. We flood-test the pan overnight before the tile goes on, and we photograph the whole thing for your job folder.
Can you tile over the existing shower tile?
No. Tiling over old tile hides whatever is failing behind it and adds weight and thickness at the tub edge and the valve. We take the old tile and the board behind it out, check the studs, and start with new waterproofing. It is the only way to know the shower is dry.
Do I need a plumber for shower tile?
If the valve, the drain or any supply line is being replaced or moved, yes, and that work is done by a licensed plumber, not by us. Most retiles include a new valve because the old trim will not fit the new wall depth. We bring in a plumber we work with, or coordinate with yours, and set the timing so the valve is in before the wall closes.
How long before I can use a newly tiled shower?
Grout needs to cure and the silicone at the corners needs to skin over. Plan on staying out of the shower for about three days after the last grout day. If a glass door is going on, the door company measures after the tile is done and installs a week or two later, so a curtain rod in the meantime is a good idea.
Can you add a niche to a tiled shower?
In a new shower, yes, and it is the best time to do it. We frame it between two studs on a wall that has no plumbing behind it, slope the bottom so it drains, waterproof it as part of the wall, and tile it so the grout lines line up with the wall. Adding one to an existing shower means opening the wall and re-waterproofing that section, which is a bigger job.
Should shower corners be grouted or caulked?
Caulked, with a silicone that matches the grout color. Inside corners, the seam at the tub or pan, and the joint at the ceiling all move a little as the house does, and grout in those joints cracks. Silicone flexes. We grout the field and silicone every change of plane.
Get a written quote for this job
Three photos and a sentence is enough. You hear back within one business day. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.
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Read morePage reviewed September 24, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All tile pages
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