Fence Post Replacement — Rotted or Heaved Wood Posts Reset
One post is gone at the ground and the section beside it is flat on the lawn; the rest of the fence is fine. That is a post job, not a fence job, and it is priced by the post.
JMB Builders does fence post replacement across the Twin Cities metro and north to St. Cloud: posts rotted off at the ground, posts frost has pushed out of line, and gate posts that lean until the gate drags. The panels on each side are unhooked and held, the old post and its concrete come out, a new treated post goes in below the frost line in concrete or compacted gravel, and the panels go back on. Priced per post.
- Priced per post, quoted from photos
- Old post and old concrete removed, not left in the hole
- New post set below frost in concrete or gravel
- Panels re-hung plumb, gate re-swung
- Licensed MN contractor BC809005
Wood fence posts fail at the ground line. The part in the air is dry, the part in the concrete is sealed, and the few inches where the post meets the soil stay wet and rot through. One spring the wind lays a section down and the post is found snapped off flush with the top of the footing. The other Minnesota failure is frost: a post set shallow or set in a concrete collar that flares at the top gets lifted a little every winter until the rail screws pull and the panel sags. Neither means the fence is done. Both mean the post is.
The job is one post at a time. The panels or rails on each side are unscrewed from the bad post and propped, the stub and the old concrete are dug and pulled, and a new ground-contact treated post goes in a hole below the frost line. In heavy clay we set it in concrete, crowned at the top so water runs away from the post; in sandy soil compacted gravel drains better and holds well. The post is plumbed to a string line with the rest of the fence, the panels are re-hung with new screws, and the top is cut to match. A gate post gets a bigger post, a deeper hole and concrete no matter the soil, because it carries a swinging load all day.
We do posts on fences we did not build, cedar and treated, privacy and picket and split rail. A fence with more than a handful of bad posts, or one where the panels are as rotted as the posts, is a new fence, and we say so from the photos and quote that as its own project. Staining the new post to match the fence is its own line, or leave it to weather in.
What you supply
- Photos of each bad post from both sides, and one along the fence line so we can see how many there are
- A note on the soil if you know it, and whether the fence is on or near the property line
- Sprinkler lines and invisible dog fence pointed out; the utility locate does not mark those
- Stain or paint color if you want the new post finished to match; that is quoted as its own line, or leave it to weather
What JMB supplies
- Utility locate before we dig, and hand-digging near private lines
- Panels or rails unscrewed and propped, the old post stub and the old concrete dug out and hauled
- Ground-contact treated post, or cedar to match a cedar fence, cut to height
- Hole dug below the frost line; concrete crowned away from the post, or compacted gravel where the soil drains
- Post plumbed to the fence line, panels re-hung with exterior screws, rails or brackets replaced where they split
- Gate posts set heavier and deeper, hinges reset and the gate re-swung so it latches
- Post caps put back or replaced, and photos in your job folder
How it is priced: per unit
Quoted in writing from your photos within one business day. What moves the number:
- Number of posts in the visit; the second post is always cheaper than the first
- Line post vs. corner post vs. gate post, which gets a bigger post and a deeper concrete footing
- Old concrete to break and pull, or a post that was set in dirt and comes out easily
- Concrete or gravel, which we choose by soil and by what the rest of the fence is set in
- Panels that can be unhooked and re-hung vs. a stick-built fence where the rails and pickets come off
- Rails, brackets or pickets that split when the post failed and have to be replaced
- Access: a post in the back corner behind the shed takes longer to reach than one along the driveway
- Staining or painting the new post to match, quoted as its own line
Send a photo of each post from both sides and one down the fence line. If you have the fence's original invoice or know how the posts were set, mention it; it tells us what we will find in the hole.
How long it takes
One to three posts: half a day, including digging out the old concrete. A gate post with the gate re-hung: most of a day. Panels go back on the same visit; a gate post gets its gate once the concrete has set.
How your project works
- 1
Send photos, get a written quote
Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized quote within one business day. We only come out to measure first when the job needs a tape measure — no pressure, no games.
- 2
Pick materials, or bring your own
We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.
- 3
Clean, precise installation
The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.
- 4
Walkthrough and invoice
We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.
Situations and options
Rotted line post
The post has snapped at the ground and a section is down. Panels propped, stub and footing dug out, new treated post set below frost, panels re-hung plumb. The everyday job.
Frost-heaved post
The post is up out of line and the panel beside it has pulled its screws. The post is pulled, the hole is dug below frost, and the post is reset with concrete crowned to shed water or with gravel, so the frost has nothing to grab.
Gate post reset
The gate drags because the hinge post has leaned. The post is replaced with a heavier one in a deeper concrete footing, the hinges are reset, and the gate is re-swung and latched. A diagonal brace or a wheel goes on a wide gate that was always going to sag.
Post replacement on a panel fence
Prebuilt privacy panels hung between posts. The panels are unhooked from the bad post, held, the post is replaced and the same panels go back on with new brackets or screws. No pickets come off.
Split rail or picket post
Split rail posts are replaced with the same mortised style so the rails slide back in. Picket fences get the rails unscrewed from the post and put back on the new one; a few pickets usually get replaced at the same time.
Fence Post Replacement — Rotted or Heaved Wood Posts Reset: questions, answered
Can you replace a fence post without taking down the fence?
Yes. Only the panels or rails attached to the bad post come loose; they are propped in place, the old post and its concrete are dug out beside them, the new post goes in, and the panels are screwed back to it. The rest of the fence is not touched. On a panel fence the panels stay whole; on a stick-built fence the rails come off the post and go back on.
Why did my fence post rot at the ground?
The few inches where the post meets the soil stay wet, and that is where wood rots. It happens faster when the concrete around the post was finished flat or dished so water pools at the post, when the post was not rated for ground contact, and when mulch or soil was piled against it. A new post rated for ground contact, set with the concrete crowned away from it, lasts far longer in the same hole.
Concrete or gravel for a fence post in Minnesota?
Both work if the hole goes below the frost line. Concrete is the choice in clay and for any gate or corner post, crowned at the top so water runs off the post instead of sitting against it. Compacted gravel drains better in sandy soil and lets a wet post dry out, so the post itself lasts longer. We match what the rest of the fence was set in unless that is what failed.
Why does my fence post keep heaving up every winter?
The hole was too shallow, or the concrete footing flares out at the top, which gives the frost a shelf to lift. Frost grips the post or the footing and pushes it up a little each year, and it does not settle all the way back. The fix is a new hole below the frost line and a footing that is straight-sided or narrower at the top, so there is nothing for the frost to push on.
Do you have to remove the old concrete footing?
Yes. A new post cannot go in the same spot with the old concrete there, and setting it beside the old footing puts it out of line with the fence. The stub and the concrete are dug out with a bar and pulled, sometimes in pieces, and hauled. It is the slow part of the job and the reason a post replacement takes longer than setting a post on a new fence.
How many bad posts before it is time for a new fence?
If one or two posts are gone and the panels and the rest of the posts are sound, replace the posts. If several posts are rotted, the ones that look fine are usually close behind, and the panels are often as gray and split as the posts; at that point the money is better spent on a new fence. We say which one it is from the photos, and a new fence is quoted as its own project.
Recent JMB work, from our job log
59 installs recorded across 30 Twin Cities communities since Dec 2025. Window and door installs for homeowners and for the builders and dealers we sub for. Counts come straight from our job log; no customer names.
Get a written quote for this job
Three photos and a sentence is enough. You hear back within one business day. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.
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Read morePage reviewed September 26, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All landscaping pages
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