Paver Sealing and Polymeric Sand — Patio Cleaned, Re-Sanded and Sealed
The patio is still flat but the joints are empty, the weeds are winning and the color has gone dull — a clean, new joint sand and a coat of sealer bring it back without lifting a paver.
JMB Builders does paver sealing and polymeric sand on existing patios, walks and driveway aprons across the Twin Cities metro. The pavers are pressure washed, the old joint sand and weeds are blown out, new polymeric sand is swept in, compacted and set with water, and once everything is dry a paver sealer goes on. It is maintenance for a patio that is still level. Priced per project, quoted from photos.
- Priced per project, quoted from photos
- Pressure washed, joints cleaned out first
- Polymeric sand swept, compacted and set
- Sealer: natural look or wet look, your choice
- Licensed MN contractor BC809005
Paver joints do not last forever. Plain sand washes out in a few seasons, polymeric sand wears down after enough winters, and once the joints are low the weeds and the ants move in and the pavers start to rock. If the patio is still level, that is not a repair; it is maintenance, and it is one visit. This page is that visit. If the pavers have sunk or spread, start with our paver repair page instead, because the joints get done as part of that.
The order matters. First the surface is pressure washed to strip the dirt, moss and the old sand crust, and the joints are blown or washed out to depth so the new sand has room. The patio has to dry completely before the sand goes in, because polymeric sand that gets wet on the surface of a paver sets there and hazes. Then the sand is swept into the joints, the pavers are run over with a plate compactor on a pad to settle the sand to the bottom, the joints are topped up, every grain is blown off the surface, and the whole thing is misted in stages so the binder activates without washing out.
Sealing is the last step and it is optional. A sealer holds the color, makes oil and leaf stains easier to wash off, and locks the top of the polymeric sand so it lasts longer. Natural-look sealers leave the paver looking like it does when it is dry; wet-look sealers darken it and add a sheen. Either one needs a dry patio, a dry forecast, and reapplying every few years. We tell you which suits your paver and let you pick.
What you supply
- Photos from standing height and one close-up of the joints, so we can see how empty they are and whether the pavers are still level
- Whether you want sealer, and natural look or wet look; we can send photos of each on a similar paver
- The patio cleared of furniture, planters and the grill for the visit, and a hose bib we can use
- A note if the patio has been sealed before, and with what, if you know
What JMB supplies
- Pressure washing of the whole surface, with an efflorescence or rust cleaner first where the pavers need it
- Old joint sand, weeds, moss and ant hills blown or washed out of the joints to depth
- Polymeric sand swept into every joint, compacted in with a padded plate, topped up and blown clean
- Joints misted in stages so the sand sets without washing out or hazing the surface
- Paver sealer, natural look or wet look, rolled or sprayed once the patio is dry
- Weather planning: a dry window for the sand and another for the sealer
- Photos of the finished patio in your job folder
How it is priced: per project
Quoted in writing from your photos within one business day. What moves the number:
- Square footage of the patio, walk or apron, which sets the washing, sand and sealer quantities
- Joint width and paver size: wide joints and small pavers take much more sand
- How dirty the surface is: moss, efflorescence, rust or old sealer that has to be stripped first
- Re-sand only vs. re-sand and seal
- Sealer type: a natural-look water-based sealer vs. a wet-look or solvent-based one
- Whether a few loose or rocking pavers get reset while we are there
- A second trip when the weather does not give one long enough dry window
One standing-height photo and one close-up of the joints is enough. If the pavers are visibly sunken or the edges have spread, we will point you to the repair page so you are not paying for sand that will wash out.
How long it takes
A typical patio: one day to wash and dry, a second day to sand and set. Sealing is a third short visit once the sand has cured and the patio is dry. All of it needs dry weather, so it is scheduled around the forecast.
How your project works
- 1
Send photos, get a written quote
Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized quote within one business day. We only come out to measure first when the job needs a tape measure — no pressure, no games.
- 2
Pick materials, or bring your own
We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.
- 3
Clean, precise installation
The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.
- 4
Walkthrough and invoice
We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.
Situations and options
Re-sand only
Wash, blow out the joints, new polymeric sand, compact, set. The fix for weeds and ants and rocking pavers when the patio is level. Leaves the paver its natural dry color.
Re-sand and seal, natural look
Everything above plus a water-based sealer that leaves the paver looking the same when dry, sheds stains and hardens the top of the sand. The choice for people who like the paver the way it is.
Re-sand and seal, wet look
Same job with a sealer that darkens the paver and adds a sheen, the look of a patio just after rain. Shows off a tumbled or color-blended paver. Slightly slicker when wet, so we point that out for a pool deck.
Strip and reseal
A patio that was sealed years ago and is now blotchy, white or peeling. The old sealer is stripped, the surface is washed and re-sanded, and a fresh sealer goes on. More work than a first-time seal, priced accordingly.
Paver Sealing and Polymeric Sand — Patio Cleaned, Re-Sanded and Sealed: questions, answered
How often should pavers be re-sanded and sealed in Minnesota?
Polymeric sand generally holds up for several winters before the joints are low enough to need topping up; plain sand goes faster. Sealer needs redoing every few years, sooner on a patio in full sun or one that gets shoveled and salted. The sign to call is simple: joints you can see the bottom of, weeds coming up between the pavers, or a color that has gone flat and chalky.
Does polymeric sand stop weeds between pavers?
Mostly. Polymeric sand sets up firm, so seeds that land in the joint have nowhere to root, and ants cannot tunnel it out. It does not kill what is already growing, which is why the joints get washed and blown out to depth before the new sand goes in. A few seeds will still land on top and sprout in dust over the years; they pull out easily because there is nothing under them.
Why did my polymeric sand turn white or haze on the pavers?
The surface was not fully clean of sand before it was wet, or the pavers were damp when the sand went in, and the binder set on the face of the paver. It happens a lot on first-time DIY jobs. The haze can usually be removed with a polymeric haze cleaner or, if it is thick, a light wash and scrub. We blow the surface clean twice and mist in stages so it does not happen.
Should I seal my pavers or leave them alone?
Either is fine. Sealer holds the color, makes stains and grease easier to wash off, and locks the top of the polymeric sand, but it has to be reapplied every few years and it changes the look, from a slight sheen to a full wet look depending on the product. An unsealed patio ages to a softer color and needs nothing but joint sand. If you like the paver the way it is, a natural-look sealer keeps it that way; if you like it best after rain, a wet-look sealer holds that.
Can pavers be sealed in the fall?
Yes, as long as there is a dry, mild window. Sealer needs a dry patio, no rain in the forecast for a day or two, and temperatures the product allows, which rules out the first frost and rules out a hot afternoon in July as well. September and early October are usually good, and so is late spring once the patio has dried out. We schedule around the forecast and will move the date rather than seal a damp patio.
Do you fix sunken pavers when you re-sand?
A few rocking or slightly low pavers, yes: they come up, get a little bedding sand, and go back level before the joints are sanded. A whole corner that has sunk, or edges that have spread and opened the joints, is a base or edge restraint problem, and sanding over it wastes the sand. That work is on our paver repair and edge restraint pages, and the re-sand and seal happens at the end of it.
Recent JMB work, from our job log
59 installs recorded across 30 Twin Cities communities since Dec 2025. Window and door installs for homeowners and for the builders and dealers we sub for. Counts come straight from our job log; no customer names.
Get a written quote for this job
Three photos and a sentence is enough. You hear back within one business day. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.
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Read morePage reviewed September 26, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All pavers pages
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