Trim Carpenter in Minneapolis, MN
A replaced window with flat ranch casing, a doorway a past remodel stripped bare, or base pulled for new floors: trim that belongs in an older Minneapolis house.
Reply within one business day. Or call / text 763-204-2099.
A trim carpenter in Minneapolis, MN mostly works next to woodwork that is already there. JMB Builders fits new casing, tall baseboard and crown into 1900–1950s houses so it sits beside the original stained fir or oak: profiles matched with stock and built-up pieces, plinth and rosette blocks replaced, base scribed to old floors. Baseboard is priced per linear foot, casing per opening. Send photos and we reply within one business day.
- Base per linear foot, casing per opening
- Stain-grade fir and oak or paint-grade
- Built-up profiles to match the original
The typical Minneapolis house we work in was built between 1900 and the 1950s: a bungalow or a story-and-a-half with stained fir or oak casing, tall baseboard, and plinth and rosette blocks at the doors. Most of that trim is still there. The trouble is the pieces that are not: a window replaced in the 1980s and cased in flat ranch stock, a doorway widened with no head trim, base cut short when a radiator line or register moved.
Matching that work is mostly assembly, not a single piece off the rack. A tall Minneapolis base is often a plain board with a separate cap and shoe; casing may be flat stock with a back band or a head cap. We build those up from stock fir, oak and poplar so the new piece lines up with the old one at the corner. Stain is tested on offcuts of the same wood, and we tell you up front that new wood beside century-old finish is close, not identical, on day one.
In the 1940s and 1950s houses the trim is simpler and often painted, and a whole floor goes quickly. Our job log has nine window and door installs in Minneapolis between December 2025 and September 2026; the same crew does trim for homeowners here and in Golden Valley and Columbia Heights, and for general contractors on renovations. Painting is quoted as a separate line — or leave it primed and caulked and paint it yourself.
Get a written quote for this job
Three photos and a sentence is enough: a reply within one business day, or ask for a free in-home estimate. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.
What you supply
- A photo of each room from the doorway and close-ups of the trim you want matched
- A short offcut of the old casing or base if one comes loose; it makes matching faster
- Stained or painted, and your stain or paint color
- The count of windows and doors that need casing
What JMB supplies
- Stain-grade fir, oak or poplar, or primed paint-grade stock
- Built-up profiles: base with cap and shoe, casing with back band or a head cap
- Plinth and rosette blocks to the size of the originals
- Careful removal of damaged trim so the plaster behind stays put
- Base scribed to floors that slope or wave
- Stain samples on offcuts before anything goes on the wall
- Filler, glue at the joints and paintable caulk on painted work
- Painting or staining when you want it done, quoted as its own line
How it is priced: per linear foot
Quoted in writing from your photos, with a reply within one business day. What moves the number:
- Linear feet of base and the number of window and door openings
- Stain-grade fir or oak vs. paint-grade poplar or MDF
- How many pieces a profile is built up from
- Plinth and rosette blocks, and head caps at each opening
- Plaster walls and floors far out of level that need heavy scribing
- Staining to blend with old finish, quoted as its own line
Send a close-up of the existing trim with a tape across it so we can read the width, and one wide photo per room.
How long it takes
Casing a few windows and doors to match: a day. Base and casing through a main floor: two to four days, longer for stain-grade with finish matching.
How your project works
- 1
Send photos, get a written quote
Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized reply within one business day. Prefer a look in person? A free in-home estimate is always an option.
- 2
Pick materials, or bring your own
We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.
- 3
Clean, precise installation
The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.
- 4
Walkthrough and invoice
We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.
Situations and options
Matching original stained trim
Casing and base built up from fir or oak to line up with the existing profile, stained on offcuts first so you choose the closest match.
Plinth and rosette blocks
Corner and base blocks replaced where a remodel took them out, sized to the ones still in the house so every doorway matches.
Undoing a remodel's trim
Flat ranch casing from a past window or door job taken off and replaced with the profile the rest of the house has.
Painted trim in a 1950s house
Simpler profiles in primed stock through a whole floor, coped and caulked, for the later houses where the trim was always painted.
Trim Carpenter in Minneapolis, MN: questions, answered
Can you match the stained fir trim in my Minneapolis bungalow?
Usually, yes. Most old profiles can be built up from stock fir or oak pieces so the new casing or base lines up with the original at the corner. We test stain on offcuts of the same wood before anything goes on the wall. New wood next to a century-old finish is close but not identical at first, and we say that up front.
Will removing old trim damage my plaster walls?
It can if the trim is pried straight off, because old plaster is brittle at the edges. We cut the caulk and paint line first, pull the nails through from behind where we can, and lift the piece slowly. Small chips are patched before the new trim goes on.
Can you trim out windows another company replaced in my Minneapolis house?
Yes. Replacement windows often get flat casing or are left with just a jamb extension. We add the casing, stool and apron in the profile the rest of the house has, stained or painted to match.
Do I need a permit for trim work in Minneapolis?
Replacing casing and baseboard is generally not permit work. Changing an opening, moving a wall or adding wiring can be. When the job includes any of that, we check with the City of Minneapolis building department and pull the permit when one is needed.
Do you do trim for general contractors in Minneapolis?
Yes. General contractors hire us for casing, base and door scopes on Minneapolis renovations, priced per opening and per foot like a homeowner job. Send the plans or photos and the trim spec and we reply within one business day.
How is trim carpentry priced in Minneapolis?
Baseboard is priced per linear foot and casing per opening. Stain-grade wood, built-up profiles, plinth blocks and heavy scribing to old floors raise the rate. Staining or painting is its own line. Your quote is itemized from photos or a free in-home estimate.
Recent JMB work, from our job log
59 installs recorded across 30 Twin Cities communities since Dec 2025. Window and door installs for homeowners and the builders we work with. Counts come straight from our job log; no customer names.
Related jobs we do
Baseboard & Casing Installation
Straight lines, tight miters, and coped inside corners — baseboard and window & door casing installed room by room or across your whole home.
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Read moreBuilt-Up Baseboard — Base Cap and Tall Base From Flat Stock
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Read morePage reviewed October 9, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All carpentry by city pages
Where we work
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