Second Handrail on Stairs — Rails on Both Sides
One rail is a code minimum. Two rails is what lets someone with a weak side, a cane or a bad knee use their own stairs. We add the second one so it matches the first and holds.
JMB Builders installs a second handrail on stairs in homes across the Twin Cities metro, so there is a rail on both sides: brackets screwed into studs, a continuous graspable rail from the top nosing to the bottom, and returns at each end so a sleeve or a hand cannot catch. Priced per project, quoted from your photos within one business day.
- Priced per project, both sides if you want
- Brackets into studs, not drywall anchors
- Continuous rail with returns at each end
- Quote from photos in 1 business day
- Licensed MN contractor BC809005
Most Twin Cities stairs have one handrail because that is all the code asked for when the house was built. That is fine until somebody's strong hand is on the wrong side going down, or they need both hands to feel safe. A second handrail on the other wall fixes that for very little. JMB Builders installs second handrails, and both rails on stairs that never had one, with brackets fastened into the studs, a rail that runs continuous from the top to the bottom, and returns at the ends.
The details matter more than the rail. A bracket into drywall pulls out the first time someone leans on it. A rail that ends in mid-air catches a sleeve. A fat decorative rail that a hand cannot close around is not graspable. We set the rail at a consistent height off the nosings, add blocking where a stud is missing, and return the ends to the wall so it is safe at the top and the bottom step.
What you supply
- A photo of the stairs from the bottom and one from the top, and a photo of the existing rail if there is one
- Who will use it and which side their strong hand is on, so we set the height for that person
- Rail profile and finish if you want a match to the existing rail, or leave it to us to match
What JMB supplies
- A graspable handrail in oak, poplar or primed pine, round or the standard profile that matches most existing rails
- Heavy brackets screwed into studs, with blocking added behind the drywall where the stud spacing does not work
- The rail set at a consistent height above the stair nosings, level with the existing rail on the other side
- Returns at the top and bottom so the rail ends turn into the wall instead of ending in the open
- A rail that runs continuous past the landing when the stair turns, with a fitting at the corner
- Finish: stained and coated, or painted as a separate line, or primed for you to paint
- Photos of the finished rail in your job folder
How it is priced: per project
Quoted in writing from your photos within one business day. What moves the number:
- Length of the stair and whether it is straight or turns at a landing, which needs a corner fitting
- One new rail on the open wall vs. replacing the existing rail too so both sides match
- Stud layout: brackets that land on studs vs. blocking that has to be added behind the drywall
- Wall material — drywall is quick, plaster or a concrete basement wall needs a different anchor
- Wood species and finish: primed pine, stained oak, or matching the profile already on the stairs
- Painting or staining as its own line, or leaving it primed for you
Send photos from the top and bottom of the stairs and tell us if the wall is drywall, plaster or block. We quote the rail, brackets and finish as one number.
How long it takes
One straight stair: half a day. A stair with a turn, or a basement wall that needs blocking or masonry anchors: most of a day. Stain and coating adds a day to dry before it is handled.
How your project works
- 1
Send photos, get a written quote
Send three photos of the space and a sentence about what you want. You get a clear, itemized quote within one business day. We only come out to measure first when the job needs a tape measure — no pressure, no games.
- 2
Pick materials, or bring your own
We help you choose profiles and materials that fit the house and the budget, or match your existing millwork exactly — or you buy the door or trim yourself and we install it. Everything is confirmed before the crew is scheduled.
- 3
Clean, precise installation
The crew shows up on time, protects floors and furniture, and installs with tight joints and consistent reveals. Photos of the finished work go in your job folder.
- 4
Walkthrough and invoice
We walk the finished work with you. If anything is not right, we fix it before we call the job done. Then one invoice, paid by check or direct deposit — no card fees, no payment links.
Situations and options
Second rail on the open wall
The most common job: the stairs have one rail and we add a matching one on the other wall, at the same height, so a person can use either hand or both.
Both rails on a basement stair
Many basement stairs have no rail or a 2x4 screwed to the wall. We install a graspable rail on each side, into the studs or into the block wall with masonry anchors.
Rail on a stair with a turn
When the stairs have a landing, the rail follows it: a fitting at the corner, continuous along the landing wall, so a hand never has to let go between the top and the bottom.
Replace a rail that is not graspable
A wide, flat or heavily carved rail that a hand cannot close around gets replaced with a round or standard profile rail that a person can actually hold while falling.
Second Handrail on Stairs — Rails on Both Sides: questions, answered
Should stairs have a handrail on both sides?
For anyone who is unsteady, yes. Code only requires one rail on most residential stairs, but a person with a weak side, a cane, or a bad hip needs the rail on their strong side both going up and coming down, and that means a rail on each wall. It also lets two hands share the work on a steep basement stair. Adding the second rail is one of the cheapest changes that keeps someone using their whole house.
How high should a stair handrail be?
Residential code puts the top of the rail between 34 and 38 inches above the stair nosings, measured straight up from the front edge of each tread, and the rail has to run at the same height the whole way. Inside that range we set it for the person using it: a shorter person usually likes it near the low end. When there is already a rail on the other side, the new one goes at the same height so both hands land in the same place.
What makes a handrail graspable?
A hand has to be able to close around it. A round rail between about an inch and a quarter and two inches across is the easy answer, and the standard oval and mushroom profiles sold as handrail qualify too. A 2x4, a wide flat board, or a decorative rail more than a couple of inches across is not graspable; a hand slides off it in a fall. We use a rail that meets the graspable rule and set it with enough clearance from the wall for knuckles.
How do you attach a handrail to drywall?
We do not. The brackets go into the studs behind the drywall, with long screws, and where a stud does not land where a bracket needs to be we open the wall and add blocking, then patch it. Handrail brackets into drywall anchors are the number one thing we get called to fix. The rail has to hold a falling adult, and only framing does that.
Can you put a handrail on a concrete basement wall?
Yes. The brackets are set with masonry anchors into the block or poured wall, which hold well when they are drilled and set properly. On a stair with one drywall wall and one block wall we do each side with the right anchor and the rails come out at the same height. Send a photo of the wall and we will know what to bring.
Why do the ends of a handrail have to return to the wall?
An open rail end is a hook. A sleeve, a purse strap or a hand sliding off the end catches on it, usually at the bottom of the stairs where someone is moving fastest. Returning the rail, which means turning the end in to meet the wall, or using a rounded return fitting, takes that away. It is a small part but we do it on every rail.
Get a written quote for this job
Three photos and a sentence is enough. You hear back within one business day. Or text the photos to 763-204-2099.
Related jobs we do
Handrail Replacement & Wall-Mounted Handrail Installation
The handrail wiggles, it stops short of the bottom step, or the basement stairs never had one. We install a rail that holds a falling adult and looks like it belongs.
Read moreGrab Bar Installation — Anchored Into Studs or Blocking
A grab bar has to hold a falling adult. We find the studs, add blocking when the studs are in the wrong place, drill the tile cleanly and set the bar where you reach for it.
Read moreLever Door Handles and Threshold Ramps for Seniors
Knobs you cannot turn and thresholds you trip on are the two small things that make a house hard to live in. We swap every knob for a lever and fix every threshold in one visit.
Read moreWiden a Doorway for a Wheelchair or Walker
A bathroom door that a wheelchair cannot get through has two fixes, one small and one real. We tell you which one your door needs and do the framing, door and patching in one job.
Read moreBlocking for a Shower Seat and Grab Bars Before Tile
The shower is open to the studs and someone in the house will need to sit down in it. Now is the only time to put wood behind the tile. We set the blocking, then hang the seat when the tile is done.
Read moreThreshold Ramp for an Entry Door — Rubber, Aluminum or Wood
The front door has a sill and a step that a wheelchair cannot get over. We ramp the threshold, or the one step in front of it, so the person can get in and out on their own.
Read morePage reviewed September 24, 2026 · JMB Builders LLC, MN license BC809005 · All aging in place pages
Where we work
Aging in place near you
Based in Zimmerman, scheduling across the Twin Cities metro. Closest first: